Fish Hook
A fish hook or fishhook is a device for finding fish either by impaling them in the mouth or, even more rarely, by snagging the body of the fish. Fish hooks have been employed for centuries by anglers to catch new and saltwater fish. In 2005, the fish fishing hook was chosen by Forbes as one of the top twenty tools in the history of man.|1| Fish hooks are normally attached to some form of line or perhaps lure which connects the caught fish to the fisherman. There is an enormous variety of fish hooks in the world of fishing. Sizes, designs, shapes, and components are all variable depending on the supposed purpose of the fish lift. Fish hooks are manufactured for the range of purposes from basic fishing to extremely limited and specialized applications. Fish hooks are designed to hold various types of artificial, processed, deceased or live baits (bait fishing); to act as the foundation for artificial representations of fish prey (fly fishing); or to be attached to or integrated into other devices that represent fish prey (lure fishing).
The fish fishing hook or similar device has been made by man for many many years. The world's oldest seafood hooks (they were made from sea snails shells) had been discovered in Sakitari Cave in Okinawa Island dated among 22, 380 and twenty two, 770 years old.|2||3| They are older than the fish hooks from the Jerimalai cave in East Timor dated between 23, 500 and 16, 000 years old,|4| and New Ireland in Papua New Guinea dated 20, 000 to 18, 000 years old.|2|
An early written reference to a fish hook is found with reference to the Leviathan in the Book of Job 41: 1; Canst thou draw out leviathan using a hook? Fish hooks have been crafted from all sorts of materials including wood, animal|5| and human bone, horn, shells, stone, bronze, straightener, and up to present day supplies. In many cases, hooks were made with multiple materials to power the strength and positive features of each material. Norwegians as late as the 1952s still used juniper wooden to craft Burbot hooks.|6| Quality metallic hooks began to make their appearance in Europe in the 17th century and hook making became a task for professionals.
Typically referred to parts of a seafood hook are: its level, the sharp end that penetrates the fish's oral cavity or flesh; the barb, the projection extending in the opposite direction from the point, that secures the fish from unhooking; a persons vision, the loop in the end from the hook that is connected to the sport fishing line or lure; the bend and shank, that portion of the hook that connects the point and the eye; and the gap, the distance between shank and the point. In so many cases, hooks are described by using these various parts of the fishing hook, for example: wide gape, extended shank, hollow point or perhaps out turned eye.
Modern day hooks are manufactured from either high-carbon steel, steel alloyed with vanadium, or stainless steel, according to application. Most quality fish hooks are covered with a few form of corrosion-resistant surface covering. Corrosion resistance is required not only when hooks are used, especially in saltwater, but while they are stored. Additionally , coatings are put on color and/or provide aesthetic value to the hook. At least, hooks designed for freshwater use are coated with a apparent lacquer, but hooks are usually coated with gold, nickel, Teflon, tin and different shades.
There are a large number of different types of fish hooks. At the macro level, there are bait hooks, soar hooks and lure hooks. Within these broad different types there are wide varieties of filling device types designed for different applications. Hook types differ fit, materials, points and barbs, and eye type, and ultimately in their intended software. When individual hook types are designed the specific characteristics of each of these hook components will be optimized relative to the hook's intended purpose. For example , a fragile dry fly hook is made from thin wire with a tapered eye because weight is definitely the overriding factor. Whereas Carlisle or Aberdeen light wire bait hooks make use of slender wire to reduce injury to live bait but the eyes are not tapered because weight is not an issue. Many factors bring about hook design, including corrosion resistance, weight, strength, connecting efficiency, and whether the fishing hook is being used for specific types of bait, on different types of lures or for different types of flies. For each hook type, there are ranges of suitable sizes. For all types of hooks, sizes range from thirty-two (the smallest) to 20/0 (the largest).
Hook styles and names are simply because varied as fish themselves. In some cases hooks are discovered by a traditional or ancient name, e. g. Aberdeen, Limerick or O'Shaughnessy. Consist of cases, hooks are merely determined by their general purpose or have contained in their name, one or more of their physical characteristics. Some producers just give their hooks model numbers and describe all their general purpose and characteristics. To illustrate:
Eagle Claw: 139 is actually a Snelled Baitholder, Offset, Straight down Eye, Two Slices, Method Wire
Lazer Sharp: L2004EL is a Circle Sea, Vast Gap, Non-Offset, Ringed Attention, Light Wire
Mustad Model: 92155 is a Beak Baitholder hook
Mustad Model: 91715D is an O'Shaughnessy Jig Hook, 90 degree angle
TMC Model 300: Streamer D/E, 6XL, Heavy wire, Cast, Bronze
TMC Model 200R: Nymph & Dry Journey Straight eye, 3XL, Regular wire, Semidropped point, Agreed to, Bronze
The shape of the hook shank can vary widely via merely straight to all sorts of shape, kinks, bends and offsets. These different shapes lead in some cases to better hook penetration, fly imitations or bait holding ability. Many hooks intended to hold dead or perhaps artificial baits have sliced shanks which create barbs for better baiting possessing ability. Jig hooks are made to have lead weight carved onto the hook shank. Hook descriptions may also incorporate shank length as regular, extra long, 2XL, brief, etc . and wire size such as fine wire, extra heavy, 2X heavy, and so forth
Hooks are designed as either solitary hooks-a single eye, shank and point; double hooks-a single eye merged with two shanks and things; or triple-a single eyes merged with three shanks and three evenly spread points. Double hooks will be formed from a single little bit of wire and may or may not have their shanks brazed together intended for strength. Treble hooks happen to be formed by adding a single eyeless hook to a double hook and brazing all three shanks together. Double hooks are being used on some artificial fishing lures and are a traditional fly hook for Atlantic Salmon flies, but are otherwise fairly rare. Treble hooks are used in all sorts of artificial lures along with a wide variety of bait applications.
The hook point is probably the essential part00 of the hook. It is the point that must penetrate fish real world and secure the fish. The profile of the lift point and its length affect how well the point goes trhough. The barb influences what lengths the point penetrates, how much pressure is required to penetrate and finally the holding power of the hook. Hook points will be mechanically (ground) or chemically sharpened. Some hooks happen to be barbless. Historically, many old fish hooks were barbless, but today a barbless catch is used to make hook removing and fish release significantly less stressful on the fish. Catch points are also described in accordance with their offset from the fishing hook shank. A kirbed lift point is offset to the left, a straight point has no offset and a reversed level is offset to the best suited.
Care needs to be taken the moment handling hooks as they can easily 'hook' the user. If a filling device goes in deep enough under the barb, pulling the fishing hook out will tear the flesh. There are three approaches to remove a hook. The foremost is by cutting the flesh to remove it. The second is to slice the eye of the hook away and then push the remainder in the hook through the flesh plus the third is to place pressure on the shank towards the weed which pulls the barb into the now oval gap then push the filling device out the way it came in.
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